Electric Vehicles

The one number that decides what a used EV is worth

Australians bought 54.6 per cent more used electric cars in the first half of 2026 than a year earlier, and a 2022 Model Y has shed roughly half its list price. The car is now affordable. The battery underneath it is either fine or it is a five-figure problem, and there is exactly one number that tells you which — if you know how to get it measured.

Published 17 August 202611 min readSnapshot: August 2026
This is a dated snapshot and buyer’s guide, not a hands-on test of a vehicle, so there is no score. Every figure below comes from a cited study, service provider, manufacturer or government source, listed at the end — we have not tested a battery ourselves or bought a car to check. Where we reason beyond the sources, we say so. Prices, service coverage and warranty terms change; confirm current terms before you act on anything here.

The short version

State of health — SoH — is the percentage of its original usable capacity a battery still holds. It is the single figure that determines what a used EV can do and what it is worth, and unlike kilometres on the odometer it is not written anywhere on the car. Four numbers frame the whole decision:

  • 2.3 per cent a year. Geotab’s April 2026 study of more than 22,700 EVs across 21 models put average degradation at 2.3 per cent annually, projecting about 81.6 per cent of original capacity still present after eight years.
  • Twice the rate. In the same dataset, vehicles that frequently used high-power DC fast charging above 100kW degraded at about 3.0 per cent a year against 1.5 per cent for the low-power group — roughly double. How a car was charged matters more than how far it was driven.
  • 70 per cent. The capacity floor most Australian battery warranties actually guarantee, typically over eight years or 160,000km. Anything above that line is, contractually, working as sold.
  • $6,000 to $20,000. The range quoted for an out-of-warranty replacement pack in Australia depending on size — which is what you are really underwriting when you skip the check.

The gap between the second and third numbers is where the money is. A car degrading at the fleet average will comfortably clear the warranty floor for its whole warranted life. A car that lived on 350kW chargers might not, and it looks identical in a listing photo.

Why this suddenly matters here

Because the Australian used EV market has grown up in about eighteen months. A report from the Australian Automotive Dealer Association, AutoGrab and auction house Pickles published on 20 July found used EV sales up 54.6 per cent year on year in the first half of 2026, with plug-in hybrids up 468.4 per cent from a much smaller base, while the broader second-hand market went backwards. Electrified vehicles of all kinds made up 7.1 per cent of used sales.

Prices moved just as hard. Pickles’ average used EV sale price ran from $35,500 in January to a $41,500 peak in April and then down to $31,500 by June, while average selling time fell from more than 60 days in January to under 40 by June. Separately, a March analysis by broker Savvy using RedBook data found a 2022 Tesla Model Y rear-drive down about 48 per cent on its original price and a BYD Atto 3 down about 39 per cent.

Cheap, fast-moving and plentiful is exactly the market in which an unverified battery gets sold. The cars now reaching the second-hand market in volume are the 2021–2022 wave — four and five years old, out of any statutory dealer warranty, still inside most manufacturer battery warranties, and old enough that how they were treated has started to show.

What state of health is, and what it is not

SoH is capacity against original capacity. It is not the same as any of the numbers a car will volunteer to you, and confusing them is the most common mistake in this whole exercise.

The dashboard range estimateNot SoH. It is a prediction built from recent driving efficiency, and it moves with weather, tyres, load, speed and the previous driver’s right foot. A car that has been doing short suburban trips in winter will show a pessimistic number with a perfectly healthy pack.
A full charge to 100 per centCloser, but still not a measurement. It tells you what the battery management system currently believes, and that belief drifts — particularly on cars that are habitually charged to 80 per cent and rarely calibrated.
Odometer readingWeakly correlated at best. Geotab’s data ties degradation far more closely to charging behaviour and age than to distance. A 120,000km highway car on AC charging can easily be healthier than a 45,000km car that lived on DC.
State of charge (SoC)Different thing entirely — how full the battery is right now. Do not accept a screenshot of a percentage as a health report; check which percentage it is.
State of health (SoH)Usable capacity now, as a percentage of usable capacity when new. This is the number. It has to be read out of the battery management system or inferred by a proper diagnostic test, and it is the number a warranty claim turns on.

What the degradation data actually says

The best public dataset on this is Geotab’s, published 28 April 2026 from telematics on more than 22,700 electric vehicles spanning 21 models. Its headline: average degradation of 2.3 per cent a year, implying about 81.6 per cent state of health at the eight-year mark.

That number is up from the 1.8 per cent Geotab reported in its earlier study, and the reason is worth understanding because it is easy to misread as batteries getting worse. Geotab attributes the rise to the composition of the newer fleet — more models, newer cars with higher charging capability, and correspondingly more high-power DC charging — rather than to any decline in battery durability. The breakdown by charging behaviour is the useful part:

  • Low frequency of DC fast charging: about 1.5 per cent a year.
  • High frequency, low power: about 2.2 per cent a year.
  • High frequency, high power (above 100kW): about 3.0 per cent a year.

Reasoning beyond the source: run those rates out over a five-year-old car and the spread is material but not catastrophic — roughly 93 per cent SoH for the gentle case against roughly 86 per cent for the hard-charged one. That is around 40 to 50km of real-world range on a mid-size EV. It is a negotiating position, not a reason to walk away. The cars you actually want to find are the outliers below that band, and the only way to find them is to measure.

One thing the data does not support is the folk belief that a used EV is a battery time bomb. On these figures the average pack comfortably outlasts the warranty that covers it. The risk in a used EV purchase is not that batteries typically fail; it is that you have no way of knowing whether the one in front of you is typical.

The four ways to get a number, in Australia

Ranked roughly by how much weight we would put on the result. Prices are as listed by the providers at the time of writing.

Independent diagnostic test
Strongest evidence
The NRMA runs an EV Battery Health Check using diagnostics from Austrian firm Aviloo, delivering an independent emailed report with a score out of 100, current capacity and flagged issues. It is $250 for members and $300 for non-members, currently Sydney metro and Canberra only, weekdays 8am–4pm with two days’ notice, and a patrol comes to the car. NRMA says it covers over 90 per cent of BEVs and PHEVs sold here; conventional hybrids are excluded, and it warns results may not be reliable on a car whose battery has already been replaced or refurbished.
Aviloo’s own test tiers
Know which one you are getting
Aviloo sells a FLASH test — about three minutes, machine-learning inference trained on tens of thousands of full tests, quoted at roughly ±3 per cent against the full test — and a PREMIUM test, which analyses the battery across a complete discharge cycle and issues a certificate covering SoH, range and cell-level checks. If a seller waves a certificate at you, look at which test produced it. A three-minute inference and a full discharge analysis are not the same evidence.
OBD2 dongle and app
Cheap, driveway-friendly, model-dependent
An OBD2 adapter with an app that has a proper connection profile for the car — Car Scanner is the common one, with community-built parameter IDs for Hyundai, Kia, BMW, VW, Renault and others — can read SoH directly from the battery management system in a seller’s driveway. Coverage varies sharply by make, model and year, and generic OBD2 mode without a profile reads powertrain codes only. Verify your exact model and year is supported before buying hardware, and expect brand-specific quirks.
The car’s own service tooling
Free, uneven, better than nothing
Some cars will tell you themselves. Tesla exposes a battery health report through Service Mode showing a maximum range estimate and degradation against original spec. Third-party access on Teslas in particular can break temporarily after software updates. Treat a manufacturer’s own readout as a strong indicator and an independent test as evidence.

Our reading, stated as opinion: on a car in the $30,000 range, a $250 to $300 independent report is roughly one per cent of the purchase price to eliminate the one risk you cannot see, and it is worth it — particularly on any car outside its battery warranty, any car whose history you cannot document, and any ex-fleet, ex-rental or ex-rideshare vehicle, where high-power DC charging is the norm rather than the exception. Outside Sydney and Canberra you are currently reliant on the OBD2 route or on whatever a workshop or dealer can produce, which is a real gap in coverage rather than a reason to skip the step.

What the warranty actually promises

Nearly every EV sold in Australia carries a separate battery warranty, longer than the vehicle warranty, and the headline terms cluster tightly: eight years or 160,000km with a guaranteed capacity retention of around 70 per cent. There is real variation at the edges — MG has marketed a ten-year/250,000km battery warranty, and Kia’s seven years sits at the shorter end — so check the specific car rather than assuming the class.

Two features of that structure matter enormously to a used buyer, and both are routinely misunderstood.

The 70 per cent is a floor, not a promise of performance. A pack at 75 per cent SoH has lost a quarter of its range and is not a warranty claim. Given the fleet-average degradation above, a car that reaches 70 per cent inside eight years is a genuine outlier, which is precisely why the number is set there. Read it as insurance against a defective pack, not as a service-level guarantee on range.

The warranty runs with the car, not the first owner. Manufacturer warranties in Australia transfer to subsequent owners; some brands require the transfer paperwork to be done properly — Tesla, for instance, conditions its transferable warranty on the ownership change going through Tesla. So a four-year-old EV typically arrives with about half its battery warranty intact, and confirming that transfer is a five-minute job worth doing before settlement rather than after.

On fast charging and warranty: DC charging is a normal, expected use of a modern EV and does not by itself void anything. What manufacturers exclude is misuse, unapproved or modified charging hardware, tampering and unauthorised repair. Some brands do write conditions around charging patterns into their terms, so if a car has clearly lived on DC, read the actual warranty document rather than a summary — including ours.

Where the law helps, and where it stops

Three separate layers apply, and they cover very different amounts of ground.

State statutory warranty
Licensed dealers only
In NSW and Victoria, a used car from a licensed dealer carries a statutory warranty of three months or 5,000km, whichever comes first, for vehicles under ten years old and under 160,000km. Queensland splits it: Class A, for cars under ten years and 160,000km, is three months or 5,000km; Class B, for older or higher-kilometre cars, is one month or 1,000km. Standard exclusions cover misuse, accident damage after delivery and items on a defect notice.
Australian Consumer Law
The broader protection
Consumer guarantees apply automatically to any purchase from a business and cannot be excluded or waived by a contract term. Goods must be of acceptable quality, safe, durable and fit for purpose, and spare parts must be reasonably available. These rights outlast the statutory warranty and are the ones that matter for a battery fault, since durability is judged against what a reasonable buyer would expect of a car of that age, price and description. Unresolved claims go to the state tribunal — NCAT, VCAT or QCAT.
Private sale
Almost nothing
Buy from an individual and neither the statutory warranty nor the consumer guarantees apply — you get the manufacturer’s remaining battery warranty and nothing else. Victoria states plainly that a statutory warranty does not transfer to a new owner on a private sale. Private is where the cheapest used EVs are, and it is exactly where a paid independent battery report earns its money.

One ambiguity we flag rather than resolve: Consumer Affairs Victoria lists “batteries” among the components excluded from the statutory used-car warranty. That exclusion long predates electric cars and plainly contemplates a 12V starter battery, but we could not find published guidance confirming how it is applied to a traction pack. If you are buying in Victoria and relying on the statutory warranty rather than the manufacturer’s battery warranty, that is a question to put to the dealer in writing before you sign.

What to do before you hand over money

Our checklist, assembled from the sourced material above and applied to an Australian purchase.

Ask for SoH in writing, up frontNot a range estimate, not a photo of a charged dashboard. A number, and the method that produced it. A dealer who cannot or will not produce one on a car that is otherwise well presented has told you something useful.
Ask how it was chargedThe single most predictive question, given the 1.5 versus 3.0 per cent split in the data. Home AC overnight is the gentle case. Ex-fleet, ex-rental and rideshare cars are the hard-charged case, and their service history usually shows it.
Check where the battery warranty standsOriginal in-service date, kilometres, the specific term for that brand and model, and what the transfer requires. On a 2021–2022 car this is often three to four years of cover still running, and it is a large part of what you are buying.
Measure it yourself if you canAn OBD2 adapter with a supported profile costs less than a tank of fuel and gives you a number in the driveway. Confirm your exact model and year is supported first.
Pay for an independent test on anything marginalOut of warranty, undocumented history, ex-fleet, or a price that seems too good — that is when $250 to $300 buys certainty. Sydney and Canberra have the NRMA option; elsewhere, ask what a local EV-capable workshop can produce and what test it runs.
Use the number to negotiate, not just to walkA five-year-old car at 86 per cent is not a bad car; it is a car with a documented 14 per cent less range than new, and that is a priceable fact. The seller who provided the report has given you the argument.
Prefer a dealer if the discount is thinA private sale strips the statutory warranty and the consumer guarantees. If the private price is only a little cheaper, the dealer purchase is carrying protection the private one is not.

What we could not establish

Four things. We could not verify the coverage or pricing of chain-workshop battery testing in Australia — mycar advertises an EV battery health test, but its page returned an access error to us and we are not repeating figures we could not read. We could not find published Australian data on the actual distribution of SoH across used EVs sold here, so the Geotab rates are a global fleet average applied to an Australian market, not a local measurement. We could not confirm how Victoria’s statutory-warranty exclusion of “batteries” is applied to traction packs. And out-of-warranty replacement costs vary so widely by pack size, brand and repairability that the $6,000 to $20,000 range is a rough envelope rather than a quote — module-level repair, where a brand supports it, can cost a fraction of a full pack.

The bottom line

The used EV market in Australia has become genuinely cheap, and the data says the batteries in it are mostly fine — better than the folklore, and comfortably inside their warranted life at average degradation rates. That is the good news, and it is the reason a used EV is now a sensible purchase rather than a gamble.

What has not caught up is disclosure. A used petrol car tells you most of what it is through its odometer and its service book. A used EV does not, because the expensive part of it keeps its condition to itself. Until an SoH figure is a standard line on a listing here, the whole gap between a bargain and an expensive mistake sits in one number that costs $250 to $300 to obtain, or nothing at all if the car and the app agree to talk to each other.

Get the number. Then negotiate.

Sources

Figures, terms and quotes above are drawn from these sources, captured 17 August 2026:

New Technology is an independent editorial publication. This article is an analysis of published studies, service provider terms, manufacturer warranty terms and government consumer information — we have not tested a vehicle or a battery here, and no figure above is our own measurement. Nothing here is legal or financial advice; confirm warranty terms, service availability and your rights with the seller and your state consumer agency before purchasing.
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